Walkin' in Memphis

Memphis is a great city:  full of life, history, and music.  Our first stop was the Lorraine Motel, site of the National Civil Rights museum, and the site where Martin Luther King, Jr. was assassinated.  Having taught the Civil Rights movement to 8th graders for the past several years (this is Sarah writing), I was excited to see this famous spot and to learn more.  The museum turned out to be overwhelming, a visual explosion of pictures, old tv clips, placards, timelines and memorabilia.  The main focus is African Americans' struggle for equal rights (little mention of the struggle for latino, women, or gay rights).  The best part was seeing the room in which Dr. King stayed the last night of his life.  Half-filled coffee cups, ashtrays littered with cigarettes, that day's newspaper on the bed made the hotel room come to life.  It was an odd juxtaposition:  the normalcy of the room contrasted with the larger-than-life exhibit in the museum. The worst part was struggling with the question of how a site like this should be commemorated.  A protester outside told us the $11 million spent to build and maintain the museum should have instead gone to fund low-income housing for the poor in Memphis.  Tough call.  Do you preserve a historical site to teach future generations or help the current generation live better?  We walked by the numerous vacant and dilapidated buildings of Memphis and wondered if our $12 entry fee would have been better spent contributing to the food bank.

The next part of our visit was much easier:  Beale Street.  We enjoyed lunch while listening to the Lousiana Mojo Queen belt out soul music and flirt with the men.  When Vanessa walked up to put some money in her tip jar, she said, "Thank you, dahrling.  Well, now that you've fed momma's tip jar, I need to sing my song."  She proceeded to sing a provocative, "Feed My Kitty" which prompted everyone else in the place to follow Vanessa's lead and drop some money into her 5-gallon tip bucket.  

Next, we visited Graceland.  I'm not sure, but I think it's one of the most visited sites in the world.  The staff clearly understands this and ushers you through the exhibits with the precision of a military operation.  Graceland is smaller than I imagined.  The house is homey, drips in 70's style, and houses most of Elvis's gold/platinum records as well as his famous pantsuits. 

 Visitors can tour the mansion, walk through the Lisa Marie Airplane, and gawk at his fabulous car collection.  I also tried Elvis's favorite treat:  fried peanut butter and banana sandwich.  Tasty, but a bit too sweet. Elvis was a legend, and despite the gaudiness of his home or the circus-like atmosphere that surrounds it now, you can't help but look at the his video clips and not love the guy.

We also dropped by Sun Records, famous for producing Johnny Cash, and dipped into the Gibson Guitar Company.  As you can see, I don't need a real instrument as I play a mean air guitar on my own.

We're in Chattanooga tonight and then head off to the Smoky Mountains soon.  Thanks for continuing our journey with us!